New York is the espresso martini-sipping cool girl who keeps an eye out for the hottest afterparty during fashion month; London, which hosts a slew of up-and-coming labels, is the trendsetting vanguard whose style skews more experimental; Milan is the wiser older sister with a closet filled with reliable and luxurious staples, and Paris is the newest. In the city of lights, you will find a perfect blend of classical and contemporary elements, polished yet always party-ready. Especially evident in Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023's best looks.
In Paris, the French capital, Fashion Month has reached its grand finale. As part of the program, legendary fashion houses such as Dior, Saint Laurent, and Dries Van Noten were joined by rising labels such as DIDU and Maitrepierre. The next week will also include the debuts of collections from Giambattista Valli, Copernic, Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, and others. There is no doubt that the street style for Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023 has been as enticing as the shows themselves, as fashion girls have adorned the sidewalks in the latest fashions.
The spring 2023 season of Paris Fashion Week is just getting started, and Dior is traditionally the first Maison to open the show. Whenever the brand unveils a new collection, it is guaranteed to be accompanied by a star-studded front row, alongside a subtle play on intellectual messaging from creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri. For spring 2023, Maria Grazia Chiuri has dedicated her collection to Catherine de Medici, the powerful 16th-century ruler who clearly had her own perspective and did things her own way. There is no doubt that the Medici were early adopters of high heels and corsets. Featuring hoop skirts, gilded gloves, architectural corsets, black lace, and embroidered flowers from the Medieval period, her three-decade reign of power was reinterpreted through luscious Baroque-Goth ensembles.
Spring/Summer 2023 draws inspiration from understated trends of the past; looks shrouded in secrecy that have become standards of today. Presented by Anthony Vaccarello, we take a look at the most memorable looks from the collection. The hooded 'capuche' pieces that Yves Saint Laurent popularized in the mid-1980s were a clear influence on Anthony Vaccarello as he merged an essential attitude with the 'elongated' silhouette of last season. In an effort to add an ultra-refined touch, the show at Paris Fashion Week featured pieces in muted colors: brown, black, and some hints of mustard yellow. However, despite the soft and somewhat restrained tones, the SS23 collection is radically fluid in nature. There is elegant ease to the silk jersey knits and floor-length dresses, which are balanced with a bold sense of masculinity in the outerwear. There is no other way to describe this stark contrast than to call it "quintessentially Saint Laurent by Vaccarello." The look is grounded by wool coats with strong shoulders, leather bombers, and trench coats, while the legs are lengthened with columnar silhouettes.
Olivier Rousteing presented his latest collection on an open-air runway in Paris to some 7,000 invited and standing guests accompanied by an impending sense of dystopia. Rousteing tapped the revitalizing and invigorating sense of Renaissance for a collection that celebrated hope and transformation following another year of erratic weather patterns. Sculptural shapes and artistic prints typified garments that were reimagined in a historically inspired manner. Neutrals and pastels dominated the runway, while prints resembled watercolor paintings when used. In Fall 2022, gentle fabrics were combined seamlessly with voluminous and experimental materials to create classic Balmain shapes - the opening wicker-looking dresses were a refreshing example of this revitalization. A tailored jacket was long and sleek, providing the perfect layering piece, while baggy pants were layered beneath loosely wrapped tops and long sleeve bodycon dresses highlighted and accentuated the figure. Ready-to-wear included braided tops and skirts, rich chocolate brown overcoats, and silky flame-motif garments.
Exploring polar opposites has been Anrealage's DNA since the brand was founded in 2003, connecting the real and the unreal, upside down to right side up, and from outer space to Earth. Anrealage's Spring Summer 2023 collection celebrates 20 years of mind-blowing conceptual designs, as well as the house's first Paris exhibition in more than two and a half years following the Covid pandemic. Kunihiko Morinaga displays a collection of one-of-a-kind patchwork garments in physical and digital formats, pushing the limits of patchworking techniques. As the reversible silhouettes transform from monochromatic shades of air-washed denim to a multitude of multicolored fragments, they balance visual and textural effects. From small scraps and postage stamp-sized triangles and squares, each piece is lovingly sculpted by hand, using a variety of fabrics, from classic Liberty prints reminiscent of vintage American patchwork to sartorial wool and fine lace, creating kaleidoscopic patterns of texture and color. There seems to be a disposition for each silhouette to morph into another.
Gabriela Hearst's regime at Chloé is characterized by technological advancements that have made both the Maison and the fashion industry at large more sustainable. A clear demonstration of this can be found in her Spring/Summer 2023 collection. It is important to note, however, that, while Hearst utilized factory workers' uniforms as inspiration for her more elevated garments as part of the larger concept of fusion and clean energy within the show, her collection stayed closer to her signature style by leaning on a nightclub-like vibe. As a nod to fusion power plants' future place within the fashion industry, she incorporated metal hardware and, in one instance, metallic fabric. Knitted dresses with cut-outs created from recycled cashmere and linen blazers were popular materials of Hearst due to their pesticide-free harvesting methods. It was a soft opening before the mood turned decidedly industrial: dresses with foil mesh or knitted to resemble perforations, as well as outfits with head-to-toe, certified European leather that would have been appropriate for a fancy factory worker. Tokamak shapes were represented by crocheted leather patches and very curved sleeves of leather dresses with heart-shaped décolletages. Fashion is based on circular lines.
It usually pays to be pessimistic when a designer says the collection is about optimism. It eludes all but the rarest attempts to capture even a hint of its elusive essence in clothing due to its broad scope, inchoate nature, and intangibility. The first womenswear runway sortie in 30 months for Dries Van Noten was an exception. Optimism was reflected and stirred too. An exhaustive 64-look detox crafted meticulously to achieve its sumptuously effective objective. There were a series of all-black looks. Malevich's abstract black vacuum painting The Black Square from 1915 had been on Van Noten's mind. Van Noten forced us to consider the texture, structure, and silhouettes that passed us by enforcing the rigidly all-black rule. The second phase introduced color, mostly pale and washed, in rustling paillettes and some extraordinarily embellished cotton jersey T-shirts and skirts. Colors seem reduced in reproduction: The burgundy ruffle-petal skirt of look 26 looked far richer in person than in the gallery. Macramé overshirts and fabrics textured with chaotic wrinkles added fresh elements to Van Noten's black-section motifs. With the injection of floral patterns against the previously established color and structure, the third phase led to a crescendo. Van Noten patterns were drawn and then redrafted and mashup lavishly. A spring floral? They were groundbreaking for their highly cultivated tempo and intellectual timbre.
Ready-to-wear collection for Spring Summer 2023 by SCHIAPARELLI. Daniel Roseberry's collection offers both everyday and extraordinary pieces. With its signature riffs on human anatomy, bijoux, special elements like trompe l'oeil hair, and iconic codes such as the gold silk embroidered measuring tape, the pieces feature exquisite tailoring rendered in the world's most beautiful fabrics. Still, Schiaparelli ready-to-wear isn't just Schiaparelli couture for the masses. A woman’s life is not just about evening gowns in satin and hammered silks, liquid viscose, and vibrant acetates. She also needs crisp white cotton shirts, clean-lined wool pencil skirts, and trousers in every fabric and cut. The perfect blend of couture for dinner parties, the office, and flights. Despite the ease of the clothes, they are meant to work hard for the woman wearing them, to adapt to her life and needs.
At Paris Fashion Week, denim ss23 presents the subversive American dream. Against the hazy light of the catwalk, acid-washed denim pieces, dramatic marine-inspired shapes, rock 'n' roll tights, fussy pleated tops, fringe globes with four fingers, teddy bear keychains, subverted puff sleeves, ruffled skirts, and oversized sweaters captivated the audience. Despite being irreverent and unconventional, Vaquera's story is both intriguing and personal. Five years ago, the brand's American flag dress with a mile-long train caught the attention of New York Fashion Week attendees. The SS23 collection featured an American flag bullet bra and a dress constructed with stolen flags from the South Shore of Long Island, echoing the emblematic dress from their first collection. There was also a distressing cut-off wedding gown that was eclectically tailored and deconstructed with finger fringe gloves that belonged to DiCaprio's mother. Vaquera's DNA is a fashion fan fiction label that subverts luxury and tells stories through clothes. In contrast to previous shows with exaggerated proportions, Vaquera's pieces now have a stamp of wearability, making it a luxury label ready to rebel.
Johnny Johansson of Acne Studios reflected on his own nuptials nearly 20 years ago; he regretted his outfit, it was too safe. With his memories in mind, Acne created its most dressed-up collection since the Swedish brand began showing here 10 years ago. There were a couple of pairs of jeans worn with tulle confections and a strapless all-in-one with a waistband neckline. Despite wearing white embroidered tulle shaped as an elongated pillowcase, Johansson said he was more interested in the people who might gather to celebrate them: the bad brother, the mother who lets the bad brother get away with everything, and the tipsy aunt. Dress made of pink satin bed sheet qualified. The gingham suits with blossoming rosettes over the bra tops and the pastel bows trapped between layers of lace and tulle also stand out. A thrashed leather blazer trimmed with metal spikes contrasted with that sweetness. Frequently, wedding ceremonies are too long and bands aren't everyone's cup of tea. In this show, both were present, but ruching around the heart on the red number made it a standout for friends-of-the-bride dresses.
A feast for the eyes, Mame Kurogouchi's spring pieces are extraordinary, centuries-old artifacts of exquisite beauty that she has been collecting for years. A treasured national tradition inspired her collection this season. Kurogouchi researched the history of bamboo basket weaving, and she discovered the work of Iizuka Rkansai, who transformed an everyday item into something of extreme sophistication. In the end, she created a striking length dress in formfitting fabric coated with a silken finish, a miniskirt worn over a simple underpinning, and an hourglass-shaped corset. The cotton shoelaces made them even more special. There were many poetic renditions of the bamboo theme throughout the collection. An elongated round-shaped top was worn over a slim matching skirt embroidered with a delicate motif of intertwined bamboo leaves designed by Kurogouchi. Additionally, round bamboo beads were woven into a macramé tabard, skirt, and vest. Using sakiori rag-weave techniques, round jackets and sculptural tops were made, reminiscent of old Japanese interiors made with smoked wood.
Felice combines articulate craftsmanship with innovative construction in a collection that has an air of rebellion and is inspired by coastal topography. Technology was introduced through injection molding and three-dimensional resin printing on materials such as gabardine, vinyl, denim, and leather. Couture elements were combined with structured tops and bold coats, creating a dialogue between the past and the future. The hemlines of buttoned tops and zippered dresses were asymmetrical. Muted neutral hues were interspersed sparingly by denim and bright ombrés, enhancing the traditionally feminine figure. The body-hugging fabric clung lovingly. An androgynous feel is added to the womenswear line by skin-baring shapes and straight silhouettes. With denim jackets tied around the waist and shoes held on the runway, Courrèges presented a collection reminiscent of a dreamlike experience, its memories creating a new present.
There were magnificent and understated pieces presented by designer Dawei, as well as classical and modern styles, as well as retro and trend pieces. A combination of sophisticated silhouettes and a practical, everyday vibe creates a sense of minimalism and sophistication. The collection is filled with clues to the 1920s Paris of that time: wide sleeves, flowing skirts, hemlines that recline at the sides, geometric lines that extend from the waist, pleats drape from fabric, and cocoon silhouettes. There was a classical atmosphere in haute couture that was continued at that time, which gave the body the greatest freedom rather than burden and restraint. The concept of couture does not have to be rigid or domineering. The look can be minimalist, effortless, and natural while accentuating femininity and blending into everyday life.
Cecile Bahnsen confirmed her status as the queen of poufy frocks with her show in Paris. The elegant Cour Mansart in the Monnaie de Paris was filled with flounced, cloud-like concoctions. "Everyday couture" was her way of combining practical, effortless Danish style with romance and whimsy. For spring, she paired her airy creations with one-of-a-kind trainers. Flowy organza dusters, embroidered with florals or backed with crinoline inserts, covered the wide-leg trousers and tailored jackets in ivory-colored Japanese denim. Similarly, the organic, wavy feel of the textiles was inspired by water, suggesting rippling surfaces or silvery reflections in liquid mercury. The asymmetrical puffed shapes were shrouded in billowy, inconspicuous sheer overlays made of glazed cutout fabrics and fil coupé. In spite of this, Bahnsen's creations had an air of density and consistency.
Jun Takahashi's Undercover show will take place at the American Cathedral in Paris in the Spring or Summer of 2023. High-waisted jeans with a flattering silhouette were the focus of the Japanese designer's attention. The collection also draws on traditional garments, such as trench coats, using clean cuts at every level to create a feeling of rupture. College sweaters and T-shirts have cuts at the level of classic writing at chest height; again, a leather jacket used zippers to recreate the cut aesthetic. Casual wear also has these cuts: college sweaters and T-shirts have cuts at chest height. Further, balloon skirt dresses can be reintroduced to this aesthetic as their wide width cuts the figure in two. Irony is Takahashi's favorite trick.